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Shopping Areas
There are numerous good buys
in Thailand, manufactured goods as well as handicrafts
and arts. There is the world famous Thai silk,
almost a must for any visitor.
Thailand is the world’s leading exporter
of gem stones. There are semi-precious stones
(opals, jades, topazes, turquoises, amethysts, zircons,
etc.) and genuine precious stones (sapphires, rubies,
emeralds and diamonds) worked into jewelry in traditional
Thai and modern designs.
Furthermore, the country offers good
value in gold ornaments, gleaming silver and nielloware,
bronzeware, pewterware, ceramics and specially high-fired
celadon as well as wood carvings.
In term’s of price, Bangkok is one of
the most competitive cities in the region, if not the
world. If one doesn’t have too much time, hotel shopping
arcades are the most convenient places for Bangkok’s
most popular buys. Unlike elsewhere hotel shops in Bangkok
do not necessarily charge more than outside stores.
Those who are content with fakes
of world famous brand name articles can find a wide
selection on sidewalks in tourist areas. Fake designer
clothes and fake watches dominate this part
of shopping in Thailand.
Bargaining is possible at almost
all shops except department stores, and it is necessary
to get good prices. A discount of 10 to 20 percent on
the first asked prices is almost self-understood. When
shopping for gems, antiques or handicrafts, much bigger
discounts are not unusual. The higher priced an item,
the more is bargaining expected.
When bargaining, it’s advisable to maintain
a sense of humor. One sometimes has the impression
that vendors see it as kind of a game. Establishing
a friendly relationship with the vendor usually brings
better result than a more formal approach. Bargaining
in Bangkok is much more pleasant than for example in
Hong Kong where storekeepers immediately build up pressure
on the potential customer to buy an item for which the
price has ben asked.
While in Hong Kong, nasty behavior
of the shopkeeper is the rule when a customer doesn’t
buy even after the shop keeper has agreed to a possible
price the potential buyer has carelessly mentioned,
it is accepted in Bangkok that a client will say that
he will just return and buy the next day when
a price has been agreed upon. This leaves to the buyer
the option of comparing again prices at other stores.
It’s a faulty Western perception that
bargaining is a skill in which only Asians can reach
perfection. The basis for any successful bargaining
is to know prevailing prices for the item or
items one wants. Only the buyer who knows the appropriate
value of the items he wants to buy will be able to judge
whether an offer is good and appropriate or an attempt
to overcharge.
Obviously, the time short term visitors
can spend on checking out prevailing prices for items
they like is limited. Therefore it does happen time
and again that visitors are taken advantage of and charged
too high prices. In cases of gross overcharging, the
Thai Tourist Police may be able to help.
Sales staff in tourist oriented shops
but also at department stores in tourist areas usually
speak enough English for normal transactions.
Personal checks are seldom honored.
Credit cards are accepted in major hotels and in
shops that have window stickers, but cash is
the more usual form of payment. For information on the
risk of using credit cards, see the chapter Finance.
Numbers in brackets refer to
locations as indicated in Bangkok maps (see Bangkok
section).
Bangkok
Shopping Areas
Depending on the items one wants to
buy, the place to go to are markets, supermarkets, department
stores or specialized shops. For fresh food,
the best food as well as the best quality is found on
markets. For low-tech household items and textiles,
markets offer the best prices while the quality may
often be less convincing. For shopping at open markets,
it is advisable to wear old shoes as floors are often
dirty, wet and slippery. Open markets are sometimes
crowded and one can expect that possibly present pickpockets
are attracted by foreigners more than by Thais, especially
as they expect that foreigners watch their belongings
less carefully than the locals.
Supermarkets are the place to
go to for foods that need to be kept cool such as diary
products and processed foods. Furthermore, imported
foods are generally not available at open markets but
only at supermarkets.
Department stores usually have
the considerable advantage of shopping comfort
as they have a good in-house selection and one can move
around in their air-conditioned facilities without tiring
as much as one would outside. One pays for this amenity
through prices which are generally higher than in market
areas. For imported household items as well as
for large size garments and shoes department
stores are the best places to go to.
Sukhumvit
Road Area
While being the main tourist area as
well as the preferred residential area for foreigners,
the upper and middle Sukhumvit Road area (from Soi 2
to Soi 34) is not a major shopping district. Nevertheless,
especially the stretch until Soi 13 has many sidewalk
vendors for items usually bought by tourists, such
as handicrafts and fake watches, fake designer clothes
and other made in Thailand "brand name" fashion accessories.
There is a branch of the Robinson’s Department Store
chain, as well as a number of shops selling household
items usually requested by foreign residents, such as
rattan furniture. Furthermore, there are several supermarkets
with especially good selections in Euro foods.
Two big hotels, the Ambassador and the Landmark
have large shopping arcades.
Phrakanong
In spite of its proximity to the main
tourist area along Sukhumvit Road, this shopping district
around Soi 71, Sukhumvit Road still caters almost exclusively
to Thai households. There are several department
stores, ATM , Asia , a wet market and
shops for all kinds of daily needs. Prices are lower
than at shopping districts such as Ploenchit Road or
Siam Square. However, the selection of high quality
products as well as garments in large sizes is limited.
Nevertheless, we recommend the area especially for electronics.
Foreign residents in the Sukhumvit Road area who try
Phrakanong once are likely to go there more often than
they might at first think. Attractive are not only the
prices. The area is also easier to reach than downtown
shopping districts as traffic is lighter. Those driving
their own cars will also find parking space easier
than in the Ploenchit Road and Siam Square areas.
Ploenchit
Road Area
A modern shopping district between Sukhumvit
Road and Siam Square. The area which is particularly
easy to reach from Sukhumvit Road has a number of department
stores, among them a large Central Department Store
branch on Ploenchit Road, as well as the Rajaprasong
Shopping Center. Further department stores are under
construction. Like Siam Square it’s a good area to shop
for fashionable items as well as high quality
or imported household items. Nearby hotels with shopping
arcades are the President, the Regent and the New Imperial.
Narayanaphand
Narayanaphand on Rajadamri Road (and
at Dindaeng near the Thai-Japanese Youth Center) has
handicraft shops, many of them joint ventures
with the Ministry of Industry. Visitors may inspect
and buy handicrafts from all parts of the country. Items
available include Thai silk, ceramics, wood carvings,
lacquerware, bronze objects and Khon masks. The stores
are open daily from 10:00 until 20:00. (Tel 252-4670
to 9)
Pratunam
Market
This market near the Indra Hotel
, on the corner of Petchburi Road and Rajaprarop
Road, on both sides of Rajaprarop Road, is particularly
noted for garments. Not only local users buy
here but in substantial numbers exporters and
wholesalers as well. The textile prices at Pratunam
market are as low as one can get in Bangkok. Outside
the actual market area, especially around the Indra
Hotel can be found the shops and offices of many export
companies, most of them concentrating on textiles. A
large number of the wholesalers are Indians or Indian
Thais.
Siam
Square
A large modern shopping area around
the intersection of Rama I Road and Phaya Thai Road.
There are several very large department stores
and shopping arcades, as well as numerous boutiques,
especially inside the Siam Center shopping arcade.
All in all, it’s one of the best areas in town to buy
fashionable items.
Silom
Road / Rama IV Road Area
While the Silom Road area is the main
business district of the Thai metropolis, it’s not at
the same time a major shopping area. Nevertheless, a
number of art and antiques as well as jewelry
shops are located there. There is a branch of the Robinson’s
Department Store chain as well as a very tourist
oriented night market at Patpong Road - otherwise
rather known for trade in human flesh. Major hotels
with shopping arcades are the Narai, Montien, Mandarin
and Dusit Thani. The area doesn’t have a reputation
for low prices.
Samyan
Market
This small market at Chulalongkorn Soi
42, off Rama IV Road (opposite Mandarin Hotel) is known
for seafood and its many seafood restaurants.
Talaat
Soi Bank (Soi Bank Market)
This market in a small Soi next to the
Head Office of the Bangkok Bank on Silom Road
doesn’t have a particular large selection of anything
available there but it’s the only real market in the
upper Silom Road area and therefore a natural choice
for those working or staying in the vicinity. The market
has a large and fairly pleasant food stall section
which is frequented heavily during lunch time by the
lower brass of employees of companies with their offices
on Silom Road. Just as in any Thai market there are,
aside from the food part, sections with cheap clothes
as well as household products.
New
Road Area
The huge exclusive River City Shopping
Complex is a good place, at least to window shop
for antiques and to get some basic ideas on prices.
Whether one actually buys there will depend on whether
one has to look at prices or can afford two blind eyes.
Antiques traders certainly prefer up country
places to shop. Prices as quoted at River City are rather
for admirers of art than those who want to make
some profit on it. Along New Road are a number of handicraft
stores, many specializing in bronzeware. Those
who want to buy bronzeware at good prices are advised
to compare offers from the New Road area with those
at the Chatuchak Weekend Market (see below).
The selection at Chatuchak is bigger and the competition
fierce. Actually, a number of firms which have shops
in the New Road area and the Silom Road area also have
branches at the Chatuchak Weekend Market, and it is
easily possible that the same piece is priced considerably
lower at their Chatuchak branch than at their New Road
or Silom shop. There are also a number of jewelry
shops in the New Road area (no branches at Chatuchak
Weekend Market). The part of town actually is the center
for the gem trade in Thailand though not for its density
in jewelry shops but rather because a number of internationally
active gem trading companies have their offices
there. There are many more jewelry retailers in Chinatown,
and prices there are definitely lower. On Silom Road,
near the intersection with New Road, is a branch of
the Central Department Store chain. Around the
Oriental Hotel, many street hawkers offer fake watches
and fake designer clothes as well as handicrafts
typically fancied by tourists. The selection is pretty
much the same as along the sidewalks of Sukhumvit Road,
so there isn’t really any sense in visiting the area
if one stays along Sukhumvit Road.
Stamp
Market
In front of the General Post Office
[313] on New Road, stamp dealers set up their stalls
every Sunday.
Bangrak
Market
At this market on New Road (Charoen
Krung) towards the bank of the Chao Phaya River, between
Sathorn Roads and Silom Road, early shoppers can usually
find uncommon meats such as mutton and
lamb. Big hotels of the Silom Road area shop
there.
Chinatown
While it certainly is not the most comfortable
shopping district of Bangkok, it is nevertheless worth
a visit even if one isn’t interested in items bought
cheaply there. The main roads of Chinatown are the New
Road (Charoen Krung) and Yaowaraj Road. The most picturesque
shopping street is Sampheng Lane (see below),
parallel to Yaowaraj Road. While the amounts of merchandize
in stock in many Chinese shops is amazing, the visitor
may be disappointed when looking for items he would
want to buy. Trade in Chinatown is oriented purely on
the needs of locals. While there are a number
of shops selling antiques and handicrafts, the selection
isn’t very convincing. In the contrary, many Chinese
merchants trade in hardware and machinery
- but which foreigner in Thailand is really searching
for water pumps or building materials? The most interesting
for foreign visitors are probably the jewelry
and gold shops, easily recognized because they
all seem to be decorated with red velvet and gold colored
foils. Gold jewelry is sold by the weight, with
a surcharge depending on the craftsmanship that went
into forming the metal into rings, bracelets or other
designs. From the Sukhumvit Road area, Chinatown is
easily reached on the aircon bus No 1 which passes through
Yaowaraj Road. Chinatown has a number of individually
named shopping areas and markets, some of which are
described below.
Sampheng
Lane (Chinatown)
The lane (also known as Soi Wanit) is
the most famous strip in Chinatown, and it is interesting
for it’s present day appearance as well as its social
history. While today, it’s a retail and wholesale area
for the cheapest and most cheapish merchandize,
it used to be the classical red light district
of Bangkok, lined with brothels and related establishments.
According to historical sources, the women were mainly
Chinese. While today, the trade conducted in Sampheng
Lane is more honorable, those searching for a special
flair can still be satisfied. The visitor will be amazed
how crammed the lane is. In the shops, every
available square centimeter is made use of, and at many
places the displayed merchandize extends well into the
lane. And still, there are street vendors setting up
their suitcase shops in the middle of the lane.
Delivery of merchandize is possible only on men’s backs,
and the shopper or strolling visitor is constantly rubbing
not just shoulders but his whole body with the crowds
passing through the lane. As the area is ideal for pickpockets,
one may as well leave large amounts of cash and other
valuables in the hotel safe or at home. Anyway, the
foreign visitor will not find much he would want to
buy there. Aside from kitchen and dining utensils
of the lowest quality and admittedly the lowest prices,
goods to be found along Sampheng Lane are stationery,
lowest quality toys, cheap clothes and
textiles, fabrics and almost anything in haberdashery,
as well as Chinese religious items, much of it made
of plastic and foils - in the usual prevailing Chinese
colors of gold and red. The lane is more crowded on
weekends than during weekdays, though traffic on the
route from the Sukhumvit or Silom Road areas is lighter
on weekends. Sampheng Lane is easily reached from the
Sukhumvit Road area on aircon bus No 1 which passes
through Yaowaraj Road. Coming from Sukhumvit Road, Sampheng
Lane is about fifty meters parallel to Yaowaraj Road
on the left side.
Talaat
Kao / Old Market (Chinatown)
As the name indicates, this is an old
market area, about 200 years of age. It is located right
in the middle of Chinatown on the corner of Yaowaraj
Road and Yaowaphanit Road, half way between Yaowaraj
Road and Sampheng Lane. From other wet markets in the
Thai metropolis, this one differs in the assortment
of strange foods offered. At Talaat Kao one can
convince oneself that no other people of the world finds
as many organic substances usable as food as
do the Chinese. For details, please refer to the part
on Chinese cuisine in the chapter Cuisine. The
strangest delicacies described there are readily available
in the Chinese restaurants and food stalls around this
market.
Nakhon
Kasem (Chinatown)
This market in Chinatown between New
Road (Charoen Krung), Yaowaraj Road, Chakrawat Road
and Boriphat Road is traditionally known as Thieves
Market because of its large selection of secondhand
merchandize. Officially, most of the items are from
pawn shops. While there are secondhand and outdated
household appliances, the most interesting items are
so-called antiques and Chinese and Thai art objects,
including porcelain, brassware, copperware and furniture
inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
Klong
Thom (Chinatown)
This is a hardware market in
Chinatown around Mahachak Road and Soi Chong Charoen
Panich.
Pahurat
Cloth Market
This is an Indian market on Pahurat
Road in a part of town that could be described as Indiatown.
It is located adjacent to Chinatown on the way to Wat
Po. The market has mainly clothes, among them a
wide selection of Sarongs from all over Asia.
Aside from clothes there are textiles for linens and
curtains, as well as tailoring accessories. There are
also shops selling Indian spices, as well as
a number of Indian restaurants and food stalls.
Ban
Mo Market
This small market further on Pahurat
Road in the direction of Wat Po has many silversmiths
and jewelry supply shops as well as places selling
all kinds of electronic accessories and disco equipment.
Pak
Klong Talaat
This flower wholesale and retail
market on Chakrapat Road near the bank of the Chao Phaya
is known for low prices. Many flower retailers throughout
Bangkok buy their stock here. Flowers are much cheaper
in Thailand than in the West, and the per capita demand
is probably one of the highest in the world. Thais love
to decorate with flowers, and every market has one or
several shops selling flowers. (For information on the
Thai art of arranging flowers, please see the chapter
Art & Culture earlier in this book.)
Lang
Krasnang Market
This market on Atsadang Road, near the
Khao San tourist area, specializes in second-hand goods
which might or might not be from a thief’s or robber’s
loot. Officially, most of the items are from
pawn shops. Nancy Chandler’s advice: "Go here to buy
back any stolen goods."
Banglamphu
Area
This shopping area in old downtown Bangkok
used to be frequented solely by locals. However, especially
young tourists are a common sight since the nearby Khao
San area has developed into the principal site of
traveler pension houses. While some goods can be found
which appeal to foreign visitors, the selection of merchandize
is still geared towards ordinary Thai households.
Thewet
Market
This market on the bank of the Chao
Phaya, off the intersection of Samsen Road and Krung
Kasem Road , has a large selection of potted plants,
pots and general garden and plant supply.
Talaat
Bo Bae
This market near the intersection of
Krung Kasem Road and Rama I Road is one more textile
market with a large number of wholesalers.
Klong
Toey Market
This market on Rama IV Road in the port
district is particularly noted for low prices.
Talaat
Penang (Penang Market)
South of Klong Toey Market, this market
under the Expressway and close to the railway line is
known for good value electrical equipment, bedding
materials and clothings. Nancy Chandler, in her map
on Bangkok, described Penang Market as follows: "All
kinds of appliances, TV’s, sound equipment, watches,
canned foods, clothing, etc, etc at much lower prices
than department stores. Of course it just happens to
be close to the port. No further explanation is necessary."
And the Traveller’s Guide to Thailand, published by
the local company Saen Sanuk, advices: "This [market]
is chiefly for electrical goods that have mysteriously
fallen overboard from the ships which come to the port."
Phahonyothin
Road
This market on Phahonyothin Road near
the Northern Bus Terminal is good for potted plants
as well as pots. It also has a cheap fruit section.
Chatuchak
Weekend Market
This huge weekend market on approximately
14 hectares (35 acres) opposite the Northern Bus Terminal
on Phahonyothin Road is certainly the single best bet
for anybody who wants to buy just anything at best prices.
The market has everything for ordinary consumer needs,
probably except imported and high quality electronic
household items. It must be noted that it is also the
best and cheapest place to buy handicrafts and
other items tourists typically like to buy. Furthermore,
local handicraft retailers as well as Thai and foreign
exporters buy here.
As the market is just across the Northern
Bus Terminal, small scale manufacturers from the North
and Northeast drop in with their own products, bypassing
wholesalers or established tourist retailers. Many businesses
running handicraft shops in tourist areas of the Thai
capital also have weekend branches at Chatuchak. This
is especially the case for brass and bronze
items. Nowhere else in the Thai capital is such a big
concentration of brass and bronze shops as at Chatuchak
Market, and because competition is fierce, one gets
the lowest prices.
The market is a prime choice for tourists
and locals alike. For the locals, there are large sections
for cheap household products, fresh produce including
a full selection of fruits, for clothes
and other textiles as well as for pottery, plants and
garden utensils.
There also is a pet section which however
doesn’t live up to the standards of humanity towards
animals common in the West, and the best thing to show
disapproval to the way animals are caged there is not
to frequent this part of the market.
The Weekend Market is open on Saturdays
and Sundays from 7:00 to 18:00. It’s easy to
reach from the Sukhumvit Road area on aircon bus No
13.
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